A Comprehensive Guide to Buying a Bespoke Suit

Apr 6, 2015 by

It shows a certain level of professionalism and stature that is a prerequisite in many of the more demanding professional fields, as well as in many academic or social circles.

Mens suit
Image: alexanderandrathor.com

However, sorting through the many options of bespoke men’s suits can be difficult, especially for first-time buyers, since there are simply so many styles and fabrics available. And when you consider how hard it can be to simply choose a bespoke tailor in London with the great selection of world-class specialists, you better come with at least a little knowledge.

So how to choose a bespoke suit in London?

Well, the process can actually be broken down into a few essential steps, which, when thought over, can help you greatly narrow down your options and make your section process much easier.


The very first thing you should consider when choosing a suit is the fabric that would work best for you – although there are many options, only some of them might be an option for your needs.

A growingly popular option is linen because of its very light weight and thin fibres, which allows you to wear it even on hot days. On the other hand, it does come with a set of maintenance issues, many of which, like the fact that it stains easily and can wrinkle if travelled with, can make it a difficult choice if you plan to wear it often.

Another option is polyester, which is known for its durability and longevity and thus has its place among suit owners, but it performs very badly in hot and humid climates as it does not breathe at all, and thus will make you feel as if you’re in a sauna.

Therefore, the hands down the most popular choice for a suit’s fabric is wool – it’s relatively durable, easy to take care of and breathes well, making it the classic choice for a very long time. Among different types of wools, worsted wool is the best – it’s a great choice for a first suit and can be worn both on hotter days, as well as colder. Other wool options include flannel, tweed and tropical wools – they can be considered, but all have their drawbacks compared to worsted wool.


In order to not get lost in the selection of different styles of suits available, you’ll have to narrow down your preferences.

For a first-time suit, it’s a good idea to opt for the single breasted suit – it’s simply more versatile and is generally a more popular look. Also, you shouldn’t opt for a suit with more than two or three buttons, because it tends to make you look shorter.

When choosing the cut of the jacket, you should aim for a classic look – while the European cut, which is much more liberal and comes with a V shaped waist, perhaps for a first suit, the timeless American cut is the best choice.

Also, you can’t forget the pants – they are an important part of the suit as well, so while one of the bespoke tailors in London will likely get the measurements right, your main choice is whether you want cuffs on your pants. On one hand, they add some weight and thus help the pants hang better, but they are not mandatory, so if you don’t like the look, you can skip them.


Finally, you want to make sure that the suit is done properly – a good tailor of bespoke suits in London will surely make a suit that’s perfect for your complexion, but at the same time you have to be willing to pay the necessary price.

A quality suit is an investment, so looking for bargains can only lead you to getting mediocre results. If you’ve come to the decision of buying a bespoke suit, you might as well make sure that it’s done properly and will be worth the time and money, and that requires you to hire a professional with adequate experience and credentials.


Buying a bespoke men’s suit is a process that requires a certain knowledge about the types and fabrics of suits if you don’t want to get lost in all the potential possibilities. Therefore understanding the logic behind choosing materials, as well as the cut and style of the suit is essential – only then can you make an informed decision that will suit your personal needs.

Author Bio

Robin Williams is a professional blogger. He works with Alexander & Rathor. Alexander & Rathor are Mayfair, London based leading bespoke suit tailors offering mens tailored suits, made to measure suits and designer suits for men.

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